Layered Soap with French Red Clay

Tried out layering transparent and white Melt and Pour Base, and think it turned out beautifully. If you are new to M&P soap making, you can start by watching this video. Happy soaping!

Use the code CORNER25 for 25% discount on the ingredients linked under the video, as well as all other products from Moksha Lifestyle Products.

Ingredients used in the video:

  • Transparent Soap Base (Buy it Here – Available in India only)
  • Opaque White Soap Base (Buy it Here – Available in India only)
  • French Red Clay (Buy it Here)
  • Rose Essential Oil Buy it Here)



How to Make Liquid Soap, the Easy Way!

If you have never made liquid soap from scratch, and are looking for a natural alternative for commercial options – this might be helpful! To making liquid Soap the easy way you just need a piece of natural soap, water and a pot to boil it in. If you would like to try your hand at making liquid soap from scratch you can start by reading  How to make natural liquid soap. Otherwise, keep reading!

The Method, Issues and Solutions

This method is very simple, and I didn’t invent it. Though there are two differences between how I use this method and the way I’ve mostly found other people do it. Here are the two main issues and the solutions I’ve found to solve them.

Issue 1: some soap turns out sticky, lumpy or uneven when its melted into water.

This can partially be avoided by adding more water, but that takes away from the lather (and obviously makes it very thin)

Solution: I use pure Coconut Soap. 

Every soap, according to its formulation, has a different diluting point (how much water is needed to dilute it). Coconut Soap has one of the lowest diluting points, as well as an abundant lather, meaning that even when it’s diluted with water it still stays relatively thick and with a great lather.

Issue 2: most recipes call for grating the soap.

Have you every grated soap? It takes forever!

Solution: the same solution – I use coconut soap.

Coconut Soap dissolves fast and evenly, without needing any grating. I simply leave the full pieces of soap in the water and let the heat do its job.

What you need

  1. A pot – it doesn’t have to be a double boiler, just any regular cooking pot
  2. A spatula or big spoon 
  3. Pure Coconut Soap – I make it by the cold process method and store it for when I need more liquid soap. You can find a guide here: Two Coconut Soaps – for Beauty and Cleaning. Alternatively, you can buy it!
  4. Water – plain old normal tap water
  5. (Optional) Essential oils – any of your own choice

How to go about it

  1. Measure and weigh your soap and water – approximately 1 CUP of water per 100 grams of soap
  2. Simmer it on low heat – don’t boil it, since it might burn (and burned soap smells horrible!)
  3. Stir occasionally – until the pieces of soap have dissolved completely
  4. Put aside – until it has cooled down
  5. Add Essential Oils – until it has the scent you want

How to store it

Keep in an airtight bottle. I don’t make more than I need for a month, so I don’t need to add any preservatives. In case you keep it for more than a month, I would recommend that you only use it for dish wash, laundry and cleaning around the house.

Note: I use this method for personal use only. If you intend to sell or in any other way distribute, I would recommend you use appropriate preservatives.

What to use it for

Coconut soap is very cleansing and is, therefore, makes great for washing dishes, clothes and cleaning the house. As for beauty, make sure the Coconut Soap is properly superfatted (read the article given above) since it will otherwise be too drying on the skin. I’ve heard very mixed reviews on coconut soap as a face and body bar, but I personally love it!

This was all for now. Let me know if you try it out, or have any other tips to making liquid soap the easy way!


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Making soap the easy way, is as easy as vooking a meal. All you need is a solid bar of coconut soap and water!.png

3 Methods to Make Natural Soap

There is a number of ways to make natural handmade soap. In this blog post, I will go through three of the most common methods, namely Melt and Pour (M&P), Cold Process (CP) and Hot Process (HP). I will share the basics of each method, as well as go through some of the merits as well as limitation I have experienced. I will include links to the different posts I’ve written in the past describing these methods, and include simple instructions for the ones I’ve never written about.

Use the code CORNER25 and get 25% discount at Moksha Lifestyle Products, to shop the ingredients. Moksha is a leading wholesale supplier of 100% Pure, Therapeutic Grade Essential Oils and other materials around the world.

Melt and pour

Melt and pour soap making (or M&P for short) uses meltable soap bases to customize handmade soap. While cold and hot process soap isn’t meltable, M&P bases are formulated to be able to melt when placed in a double boiler or microwave. This allows you to easily customize your soaps scent, color, properties, and shape through the additives and soap mold you choose to use.

Cover - video 4


  • This method uses no lye and is, therefore, a suitable project for children as well as beginners in soap making.
  • It’s a great way to experiment with scent, color, and shape with an option to remelt if it doesn’t turn out just the way you want it
  • Melt and pour needs very little amounts of scent (essential oils or fragrance) making it much more economical than other methods
  • It takes a lot less time than any other soap making method and doesn’t necessarily need any special equipment except for a soap mold
  • It doesn’t need any curing time and can be used immediately – which can also be relevant for small businesses that sell customized soaps on order
  • It has a wide variety of techniques from simple to advanced and can be used to make incredible pieces of soap art


  • To make a soap base melt-able, chemicals have to be added, which makes the soap less natural than cold or hot process soap
  • You can’t use fresh food items in M&P, which exclude a number of exciting additives that can be used in other methods
  • Scents and additives act differently in CP and HP soap than in M&P, so it won’t necessarily prepare you to use them in other methods
  • Certain swirling methods aren’t possible in M&P, because the soap base doesn’t harden slowly and evenly
  • The feel of M&P soap is different – this is a question of personal preference

Cold process soap

During cold process soap making, combinations of oils/fats are mixed with lye (or sodium hydroxide) dissolved in a liquid. When these three elements are combined, the mix is blended until it reaches trace (the moment it starts thickening). Thereafter scent and other additives can be added. Finally, the mixture is poured into the mold and left to cure for 4-8 weeks. If you want to give this method a try you can read more here: How to make natural soap from scratch (cold process), How to form a solid soap recipe and Natural ways to colour soap.



  • Cold process soaps give you all options open when it comes to using different types of ingredients, including fresh foods (as long as its blended or juiced)
  • Because the process is such that soap can be poured in a number of thicknesses, it gives many options in design. It’s possible to layer colors, swirl them together, “paint” with soap, embed older soap pieces into a new soap and much more
  • It’s less time-consuming than HP soap – so it’s completely possible to fit it into a busy day. It takes me around 1-2 hours to make a batch of soap.
  • Cold process soaps are generally harder and last longer than HP soap, and have better lather than M&P soap


  • Cold process soaps have to cure for 4 to 8 weeks, so patience is key
  • Compared to M&P, this method needs a lot of essential oil
  • Compared to HP, this method has less scope for damage control when it goes wrong
  • The CP process is quite fast paced after trace, and it takes practice to master this. I’ve experienced not being able to add scent, or the mass hardening so much I couldn’t pour it the way I had planned
  • It’s a bit unpredictable how colorants will act in the soap. And when it’s done there’s no going back

Hot process soap


Hot process is basically CP, but with the added element of ‘cooking’ the soap for a few hours (2-4 hours). I’ve never written a post on hot process soap making, except for liquid soap (How to make natural liquid soap), but there is a lot of info about it online. I’ve tried the process a few times, and find it a lot less ‘scary’ that I thought. It’s a lot like cooking a meal really!


  • HP soap very rarely goes very wrong in comparison to CP and has a lot more options of salvaging the soap when it does
  • Since it takes a few hours you get time to manage everything, meaning that the chance for something to go wrong because of running out of time is less
  • In theory, the soap is ready to use after 24 hours after making it, because the heating accelerates the lye/oil reaction. Though in my experience the soap is still quite soft at this point, so I usually still give it at least 2 weeks to harden


  • Hot process soaps get a lot thicker and stickier when it’s been cooked, making it hard to pour. It’s really more scooping than pouring. This makes it impossible to make certain designs that you can do when making CP soap.
  • If you want to be 100% certain all the lye in the soap is gone, you will have to get a PH meter which is quite pricey. Though there are other methods of checking, that are quite precise that you can use.
  • HP soaps in my experience don’t get as hard as CP soaps and doesn’t last as long.

This way all for now. Feel free to ask anything or comment.



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How to make Natural Liquid Soap (with Recipes)

Making natural liquid soap from scratch can seem a bit intimidating to some people, but once you get down to understanding the process, it really isn’t much different than cooking a meal. In this post, I will guide you through the process of making Hot Process liquid soap, from formulating a liquid soap recipe to diluting the finished soap.

I will assume that if you’re reading this you have a basic understanding of what soap is and the process of making Cold Process or Hot Process soap (even if you only have experience with making bar soap). If you don’t, please start by reading the post How to make natural soap.

Solid & Liquid Soap – The Differences

Liquid soap, just like solid soap, consists of three elements: fats/oils, water and lye. The main difference between them is that solid soap is made with Sodium Hydroxide, while liquid soap is made with Potassium Hydroxide. Before we start, I would like to note some basic things

  • Natural liquid soap is a lot thinner than what you might be used to from commercial companies. There are ways to thicken natural soap, but I won’t be exploring any of them since those methods mostly involve adding extra chemicals
  • Just like it’s important for most solid soap makers to make a hard bar of soap, it’s important for most liquid soap makers to make a clear (non-cloudy) liquid soap. This is purely about aesthetics and doesn’t make the soap better. A common method to do this is to put excess lye and then neutralize the soap after its cooked. I won’t be doing that.

Now let’s get started from the start. Even though solid soap and liquid soap is quite similar in its process, there are some differences in how you formulate the recipe. Let me explain.

How to Form a Liquid Soap Recipe

Again I will assume you have some basic knowledge of making soap recipes, but if not please start by reading How to form a soap recipe. Making a liquid soap recipe is a bit different than making one for bar soap. The basic differences and guidelines are this:

  • Liquid soap usually has a rather higher percentage of Coconut oil (unless its Castile soap which is pure Olive oil), to ensure the soap foams properly and doesn’t become sticky. You can use up to 90% Coconut oil in your liquid soap, but I prefer using around 50%.
  • In solid soap recipes it’s important to use oils that will make the soap bar hard, but since that’s not necessary for liquid soap, you can use higher percentages of soft oils like Castor, Safflower and Sunflower. Which is great, because they are much cheaper!
  • Liquid soap recipes are mostly made of oils with fewer un-saponifiables. What this means is that some oils have fats that can’t be made into soap. If an oil has a high percentage of un-saponifiables it will make the liquid soap cloudy. For that reason, Palm, Tallow and Cocoa butter are usually avoided added in very small amounts. I take this lightly because I don’t care if my soap is cloudy.
  • Superfatting liquid soap is pointless because the excess oil will just float on top of the soap once diluted since oil is not water soluble. You can superfat with vegetable glycerin at 1% of the full recipe.

I chose to follow the following basic recipe:

  • 50% Coconut oil
  • 25% Safflower – can be exchanged with Sunflower or Rice bran oil
  • 20% Castor
  • 5% Butter like Mango Butter or Kokum butter


  • 50% Coconut oil
  • 20% Safflower – can be exchanged with Sunflower or Rice bran oil
  • 20% Castor
  • 10% luxury oil like Sweet Almond oil or Avocado

I chose to use the first recipe in my example soap and used beer instead of water. For superfatting, I added Glycerin and then finally some natural colorant.

Use the code CORNER25 and get 25% discount at Moksha Lifestyle Products, to shop the ingredients. Moksha is a leading wholesale supplier of 100% Pure, Therapeutic Grade Essential Oils and other materials around the world.

The Method

The method of Hot process liquid soap making is similar to cold process soap making, until the point where you would normally pour the soap into the mold. If you need a detailed list of instruction please refer to the link how to make natural soap. The basic instructions are the following:

1. Calculate the recipe

Unlike solid soap, your final amount of liquid soap will be at least double of your amount of oils, since the soap mass is diluted with water. So before you calculate the recipe you need to take into consideration how big your double boiler is, and then use the percentages above to calculate each oil amount. This is my recipe in the app Saponify:

Screen Shot 2017-09-08 at 5.19.55 pm
Instead of NaOH (Sodium hydroxide), I put KOH which is Potassium Hydroxide and then Superfat by 0%.

2. Measure out the oils, Melt the oils, Prepare Lye Water

I measured out my oils. Since I had Mango butter I heated the oils straight in my double boiler until completely melted. Then measured out the lye and beer mixed it, keeping it aside until it turned clear. Note: some people measure the temperature if the oils and lye water, but I simply use the lye mix when it turns clear. 

2. Pour the Lye Water in the Oils and Mix

When the lye water was ready I added it to my oils. I blended until it reached trace and then put it on the stove on medium heat. Don’t worry if it looks like its splitting, it will settle down as it’s getting cooked.

3. Cook the Soap Mass on Medium Heat. Stir less.

Cooking the soap mass it actually quite relaxed. Many might feel like stirring the mass all the time, but it won’t burn if you don’t. Actually, it’s better to put a lid on the pot and let it heat. Check once in 30 min. to see what stage the soap has reached. 

4. Keep cooking for 2 to 3 hours

The soap mass will start getting more solid and waxy. It differs a lot how long it takes to reach this stage. Be patient. 

5. Reaching the Final Stage

When the soap starts turning a lit translucent, you can start checking if the soap is done. The stage is something like gel-phase, that some might know from solid soap making. The mass is sort of elastic and doesn’t clump anymore.
There are different options for checking if the soap is done – personally, I use a PH meter and wait for the soap to reach a PH between 9-10. Though I’ve heard of people using PH strips, or the chemical phenolphthalein which changes color if the soap is not done. Others use the method called the ‘zap’ method – where you put some soap on your finger and touch it to your tongue. If it feels like a small electric current, it’s not done. Though honestly, I don’t use this method, because I can’t feel the difference enough to trust it.

6. Start Diluting the Soap

When you are sure your soap is finished, you can either dilute it straight away or keep the soap mass for diluting later. Different soap miss has different diluting points, which means some might need more water than others to turn liquid. Coconut soap, for example, has a low diluting point, which means it needs less water to mix with the water.

7. Dilute Completely or Leave Overnight

So how do you figure out how much water to use? I really just take it as it comes, and dilute slowly to make sure I don’t pour too much water.
Start adding 1:1 (As much water as your oil weight) and let me mass simmer, while you mix from time to time. Then add 1/4 water of total oils until it’s diluted. Now I actually added 1:1 to my batch, turned off the heat and let it stand overnight. In the morning I added two times 100 ml over an hour and then it was diluted. It just makes the process a little shorter if it gets to stand on its own over some time.

8. Add your Essential Oils and Colorants if any

Once it’s completely diluted you can add your essential oils and colorants. I’m a bit untraditional when it comes to essential oils, and I tend to add a lot. For 400 grams oils, I added 25 ml of Peppermint and Sweet Orange.  You can use bramble berries fragrance calculator that gives recommended amounts – or my favorite method, add until you feel like it’s enough. I’ve actually occasionally reheated a soap and added extra essential oil, and it’s worked well for me.

9. Voila! Look at it and Feel Happy

My final soap – in the sunlight it looks red, but otherwise, it has a brownish color. Since natural soap is a lot more liquid than commercial soap, it’s perfect to keep in a soap pump or foam dispenser.

This was all I had for now on liquid soap. Leave a comment if you have any questions or corrections – no matter how long I do this, I still have a lot to learn!

Disclaimer: I personally don’t use preservatives because I only use this on myself, so I, therefore, don’t know enough about it to write about. So please do your research on how to use preservatives in liquid soap, and add at diluting stage. If you chose not to use any like me, be sure to ONLY to use it on yourself, and let it be on own risk. If never had any issues but better safe than sorry no?


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How to make Natural Liquid Soap from Scratch, from recipe formulation to diluting. Includes a discount code to shop the ingridients.png


How to Make Natural Soap from Scratch (with Recipe & Discount Code)

There are tons and tons of information online on how to make soap, but I still thought I would make a guide of my own, to add what I’ve learned from my years of soap making. The perspective I can add is how to make soap without using Olive Oil and Palm Oil – two of the most commonly used oils in soap making. In this post, I will go through the basics of making soap from scratch using the example of the last soap I made. In the end, I will add a discount code for 25% to shop the ingredients.

What is soap?

Soap consist of liquid, fats and sodium hydroxide (lye), mixed together causing a process called saponification. If done in the right measurements there is only soap left once completely saponified.

The Fats in soap can consist of vegetable or animal fats (including milk fats). Most soaps consist of at least three and often as many as 7 different fats, that add to different properties of the soap. These are properties such as cleansing, moisturizing, hardness and lather just to mention a few.

The liquid in soap is typically distilled water, but can also include juices from fruits and vegetables, spirits such as beer or wine, vinegar, milk – and the list goes on. Adding another liquid than water can serve to color the soap, or to add different properties. Beer, for example, adds lather and moisture, vinegar adds cleansing properties, and carrot juice both add an orange color and other skin loving properties.

Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye, makes solid soap. It’s not to be mistaken for Potassium hydroxide that is used to make liquid soap.

These three in combination will make you a simple bar of soap, though the possibilities of added elements are (almost) only limited by your imagination. I also add Essential Oils for scent and different additives such as Clays, Gels and Herbs for coloring and added properties.

How To Make Soap

For the sake of keeping this simple, I won’t go into how to make a recipe, but simply give an example of one I used recently. If you want to learn how to formulate your own soap recipe, start by reading this post: How to Formulate Your Own Soap Recipe. I will be making this soap:

Multani Mitti and Activated Charcoal Soap

What you need to make this soap:


  • Fats – I used Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Sesame Oil, Sunflower Oil, Neem Oil and Kokum Butter
  • Sodium Hydroxide
  • Liquid – I used Water (note: I just use normal clean water, but some swear by distilled water)
  • Scent additives– I used Pine Essential Oil, Eucalyptus Essential Oil
  • Other additives – I used Multani Mitti Clay, Activated Charcoal, Aloe Vera Gel


  • Rubber gloves (Thick)
  • Safety glasses (covering your eyes completely)
  • Stick blender
  • Pitcher
  • Bowls (plastic or stainless steel)
  • Pot (not aluminum)
  • Spatula
  • Hand whisk
  • Electric scale
  • Measuring spoons (best with milliliters)
  • Soap mold of choice

Note: even though I have heard of soapers that use kitchen utensils for soap making, I prefer to keep them separate. You don’t know if lye is left when you’re cooking in them, so don’t take the chance.

Step 1: Calculate your recipe

When you calculate a Soap recipe, you start by calculating the Fats. I will give the percentage for the recipe since the final calculation basically depends on the size of the mold you want to use.

The percentages are as follows:

  • Coconut – 25%
  • Castor – 10%
  • Sesame – 10%
  • Neem – 10%
  • Wheat gem 15%
  • Sunflower 15%
  • Kokum butter 15%

Now my mold fits 900 grams of oil so the oils would be as follows:

  • Coconut Oil – 225 grams
  • Castor Oil – 90 grams
  • Sesame Oil – 90 grams
  • Neem Oil- 90 grams
  • Wheat Gem Oil – 135 grams
  • Sunflower Oil – 135 grams
  • Kokum Butter – 135 grams

This is the base of your recipe. Now you need to calculate your lye and water amount. Instead of getting into the technical stuff of how this is calculated, I’ll recommend you to use any of the many saponification calculators available. I use the mobile app called Saponify, which also saves your recipes with dates and notes, so you can keep track of your experiments.

Here is a snapshot of the app:

Untitled design

Picture 1: Name you recipe something that you remember. When you start making a lot of batches using the same recipe, I recommend you start a soap diary with the details of each batch, but we can get to that later.

  • NAOH is Sodium hydroxide, so don’t change that unless you want to make liquid soap which is KOH (Potassium hydroxide).
  • Liquid % of oils is 38, which is standard for beginners but can be modified when you’re more experienced. Soapers put more or less water to control how fast or slow the soap saponifies, giving more time or less time to finish it.
  • Super Fat % of oils is how much of the oil is kept in the soap without being saponified. Usually, soapers don’t go beyond 7 %, unless you are making pure Coconut Soap where the soap can be superfatted as much as 30%. Read more here: Two Coconut Soaps – for Beauty and Cleaning.

Picture 2: The next picture is where you add the oils. Simply press the plus sign and choose the oils you want in your recipe. You will be putting the oils in grams, which we calculated above.

Picture 3: On the last picture the final recipe has been calculated. Water and NaOH have been calculated for you, and you are good to go.

Step 2: Prepare your work area

Making soap is a chemical process, and that needs to be respected. Cover your work area with newspaper, unless you have a stainless steel surface to work on. Note that lye can ruin soft surfaces, so make sure you got it well covered. If you have kids or pets, make sure that they don’t have access to your area. Sodium hydroxide is very dangerous if ingested or if it gets in contact with eyes etc. so I cannot emphasize this enough.

Step 3: Mix up your lye water

I like to start with mixing the Liquid and lye, since it takes some time to react, leaving me time to prepare the rest of the ingredients.

Now there are a few important things to keep in mind when you deal with lye:

  • First of all, protect yourself! Lye can make you blind if you get it in the eyes, so wear your safety glasses and gloves.
  • Second, never pour water on lye, pour lye on water. I once read that you should just remember ‘the snow falls on the lake, not the lake on the snow’, and it really helped me in the start to remember.

When you have measured out the lye and water, add a spoonful of Aloe Vera into the water, and then pour the lye and stir until its dissolved. Now set it aside.

Step 4: Mix your oils

I tend to mix the oils in the pot I’m going to blend them in, to save on the dishwashing. If using any Butters, or coconut oil that hardens in winters, you will need to heat these to make them fluid.

Simply measure all your oils on your scale (in grams), and gather them in your pot. Put your pot in a water bath to melt the butter, or melt it separately in a double boiler and add. When all oils are mixed and melted set it aside.

Note: if you are mixing several oils put them on one side on the scale, and move each to the other side once added to your pot. I have several times forgotten which I have already added, having to start over!

Step 5: Prepare the rest of your ingredients

Essential oils are the only thing I don’t measure in grams, but in milliliters instead. Now there are ‘fragrance calculators’ online, but I rely only on my personal experience. I have tried these calculators, but feel like they recommend very small amounts, ending up in a scentless soap.

My rule of Thumb for essential oils is 15 ml per 100 grams of oils for ‘weak’ essential oils, and 10 ml per 100 grams for ‘strong’ essential oils. How exactly to say if its weak or strong is a bit on the personal experience too, but basically if the smell is fleeting it’s weak and if it stays in the nose for a long time it’s strong.

Clays and other additives I very rarely measure out. I just prepare them so they are easily accessible for me to use until it has the color I want. Though it should be noted that some additives will ‘bleed’ color if added in access, and others can make the soap ‘scratchy’. Still, the color depends so much on which other oils are in the bar, so I prefer to have plenty and add as I feel. You can find lots of information online with recommended amounts if you want to be 100% sure.

Step 6: prepare to make your soap

Soap is all about timing, and once you start making your soap, everything should be ready so you can concentrate on it fully. Otherwise, you might risk the soap hardening in your bowl before you pour it in your mold.

I do the following:

  • Put your mold ready on the side
  • Essential oil measured out and put on the side
  • Additives ready with a spoon to add
  • Two bowls to divide the soap when adding Clay and Activated charcoal
  • Blender plugged in and a clean surface to rest it on between blending
  • A whisk ready to hand whisk if you need to slow down the process
  • A spatula to get the last soap out of your bowls
  • An extra mold – if the soap gets too hard to pour, I have an extra mold where I put the remaining, and then use these for hand wash at home. Could be little heart shapes for example. You can also intentionally make a little extra and use these to send out as samples if you want to make soap for business.

Step 7: Mix the lye water in your oils and mix

Now, this is what you came for. Disclaimer: many soapers say you should measure the temperature of the soap and lye water, and mix them when reaching a certain temperature. I have stopped doing that after reading a lot of soapers that didn’t. I simply wait until my lye water becomes clear (transparent). When it does – you’re ready to make your soap.

  • Pour you lye water into your oils while slowly stirring. When all the lye water is poured, emerge your stick blender fully and start blending. Make sure not to let it surface since it will splatter if you do.
  • Now you need to pay attention to the texture of the soap mass. The time to pour your soap into the mold is called Trace, which is when the soap mass has thickened enough for the stick blender to leave a little mark on the surface when you lift it.
  • Since you will be adding additives, stop blending at a thin trace. This is when the stick blender leave a mark when lifted, but the mark immediately disappears. When you reach this stage, go to the next step.

Step 8: Add your essential oils and additives

At this stage, you add your essential oils and whisk with your hand whisk. After it’s completely mixed with the soap mass, you divide the soap into two bowls.

Now add your clay to one bowl and activated charcoal to the other. When they have the color you desire, you’re ready to pour your soap.

Step 9: The bowl swirl

Swirling is when you mix different colors of soap masses into a pattern. It’s a fun way to get creative and keep developing your skills. The bowl swirl is one of the easiest I have come across. You simply pour one color into the bowl on the other, and then pour it into your mold, making it swirl in different patterns.

Note: the two colors have to be contrasting. Otherwise, it won’t be very visible in the soap.

Step 10: Pour your soap

Pour your soap carefully into the mold. You can use the whisk to make little shapes on the top of the soap. Set it aside to harden.

Another thing I don’t do is to pack my soap in a towel to get it into gel phase. Gel phase is when the soap turns gel-like as a part of the process. This happens when heat is added, hence many packs it in old towels to make it warmer. Some soapers like it better after gel-phase because the color changes a bit, but it doesn’t matter for the soap itself. I often experience the soap goes through gel-phase here in India without doing anything, because the temperature is naturally hot.

Step 11: Wait, cut and cure!

Cold process soap needs to cure for a minimum of 4 weeks. Depending on the oils and mold, the soap will be hard in everything from 1 day to 3 weeks. When completely hardened, you can un-mold and cut your soap – but you will still need to set it aside. The longer a soap cures, the harder and gentler it gets. For shampoo bars min. 6 weeks is recommended, for face and body bars 4 weeks minimum.

Use the code CORNER25 and get 25% discount at Moksha Lifestyle Products, to shop the ingredients. Moksha is a leading wholesale supplier of 100% Pure, Therapeutic Grade Essential Oils and other materials around the world.

Now, you have made your first soap. Do let me know if you have any questions, tips or experiences!


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